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Signature · about 6–7 hours from scratch; 60 minutes with prepared stock · Serves 4

Spider steak burger with two cheeses and vinegary scallions

Spider steak burger with two cheeses and vinegary scallions

A burger with Argentine roots: spider steak ground with flank steak fat trimmings, garlic, a little fresh parsley and merkén. A potato bun holds crisp bacon, melted Cheddar, browned provolone and sautéed scallions inside the sandwich; the double grind aims for the cohesive texture of the original preparation.

The twist concentrates beef flavour in a film of brown stock and turns the scallions into a warm, toasted, lightly vinegary contrast. Cheddar adds melting richness and provolone its own browned face; brush on the reduction at the last moment to preserve the crust and dry bun.

Special equipment: meat grinder with 6–8 mm and 4.5–6 mm plates; thin-probe thermometer; large griddle or two heavy frying pans; non-stick frying pan; oven and fine strainer for the stock

Ingredients

Reduced brown beef stock

Spider steak patties

Crisp bacon

Sautéed scallions with vinegar

Cheeses

Potato buns

Method

Reduced brown beef stock

  1. Brown the bones and meat. Heat the oven to 220 °C (430 °F). Spread the bones and trimmings in a roasting tray, coat with the oil and roast for 35–45 minutes, turning once, until deeply browned with no black patches. Add the roughly chopped onion, carrot and celery and roast for another 15–20 minutes. Spread the tomato paste over the solids for the final 5 minutes.
  2. Extract. Transfer to a saucepan; pour off excess fat from the tray, deglaze its browned juices with part of the 2 l water and add to the saucepan with the remaining water. Bring to a gentle simmer and keep barely bubbling, partially covered, for 4 hours. Skim at the start and top up with hot water only if the bones become exposed. Do not add salt: the liquid will be highly concentrated.
  3. Strain and concentrate. Strain without pressing the solids and remove surface fat. Reduce the liquid in a wide saucepan at a moderate boil for about 30–60 minutes, depending on the strained volume, to roughly 60 ml: it should coat the back of a spoon with a glossy film without becoming sticky or bitter. If it thickens sooner, stop reducing; if over-reduced, loosen with a little hot water. Allow about 10–12 ml per burger, with a margin for stock left clinging to the pan.
  4. Plan ahead. For immediate use, hold the stock above 60 °C (140 °F) and add a few drops of water if it thickens. If made ahead, cool in a small container in an ice bath, bring to 5 °C or below and refrigerate; follow the cooling instructions in Notes. Reheat to 74 °C (165 °F) before holding hot and brushing onto the burgers.

Spider steak patties

  1. Adjust the blend. Start with 420 g meat and 60 g fat, giving 480 g before seasoning. Spider steak already contains intramuscular fat; the 60 g is added fat, not a measured total fat percentage. If the cut is heavily marbled, use 450 g meat and 30 g fat. Remove tendons and thick membranes without stripping away all the fat.
  2. Chill and grind. Cut the meat and fat into 2 cm dice; chill for 20–30 minutes in the freezer with the clean blade, plate and auger, until the fat is firm and the meat still bends, without freezing solid. Grind through a 6–8 mm plate. Work in batches and keep the mixture at 5 °C or below; if it softens or smears, stop and chill again.
  3. Season and grind again. Scatter the parsley, garlic, merkén and salt over the first grind. Mix briefly to distribute and pass through a 4.5–6 mm plate a second time. The second pass and incorporated salt are intended to produce a cohesive texture with a fine but still visible grain; mix only until a portion holds its shape, without kneading it into an elastic paste.
  4. Taste and shape. Cook a 10 g sample until its centre reaches 71 °C (160 °F) for at least 1 second, let it cool slightly and taste the seasoning. Adjust cautiously, allowing for the cheeses. Divide the remainder into 4 patties of about 120 g, approximately 10 cm across and 1.4–1.6 cm thick; round the edges and make a shallow central indentation. Cover and refrigerate while completing the mise en place.
  5. Cook. Have all toppings ready before taking the patties out of the refrigerator. Heat a griddle or heavy frying pan over medium-high heat, brush with the ghee and place the patties on it without pressing them. Brown for about 3 minutes, turn and cook for another 3–5 minutes; adjust the heat if the crust darkens before the centre is ready. Insert a thin probe sideways into the centre and check that every patty reaches at least 71 °C (160 °F) for 1 second. Thickness and burner power take precedence over the suggested timing; crust and internal colour do not replace measurement.

Crisp bacon

  1. Render and brown. Arrange the slices in a cold frying pan without oil and set over medium-low heat. Cook for 8–12 minutes in total, turning as they brown, until the fat is translucent and the edges toasted. Drain on a rack; the bacon will firm up as steam escapes. Pour off the fat before reusing the pan.
  2. Keep it crisp. Cook the bacon close to service and leave uncovered during the brief wait while the patties cook. If made the day before, cool rapidly and refrigerate; reheat in a 180 °C (355 °F) oven until its centre reaches 74 °C (165 °F) and it is crisp, about 5–8 minutes as a guide.

Sautéed scallions with vinegar

  1. Brown the whites. Cut the white parts diagonally into 5 mm slices and the green parts into short strips. Heat the ghee in a frying pan over medium-high heat and sauté the whites for 3–4 minutes until tender with golden edges, without burning the outer layers.
  2. Finish. Add the green parts and sauté for 30–60 seconds, just until slightly softened but still green. Add the vinegar, toss for a few seconds to evaporate excess liquid and adjust the salt. The scallions should be savoury, lightly acidic and free of loose liquid; spread them inside the bun in a shallow layer.

Cheeses

  1. Choose and dry. Use firm, aged provolone that can withstand brief browning; pat both sides dry. A soft sandwich slice may melt before a crust forms: in that case, use a non-stick pan and remove as soon as golden patches appear.
  2. Brown the provolone. Heat a non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat without added fat. Brown the slices for 20–40 seconds per side, in batches without overlapping, until toasted patches form and the centre is supple. Lift with a thin spatula and use immediately; if the cheese still sticks, wait a few seconds for the crust to set.
  3. Melt the Cheddar over the stock. Reserve the slices until the patties are fully cooked and checked. Brush each upper face with 10–12 ml hot stock, add a slice of Cheddar and let it melt with the residual heat, covering for a few seconds over low heat if necessary. Assemble immediately and add the freshly browned provolone; the stock stays between beef and Cheddar without soaking the outer crust.

Potato buns

  1. Toast the inside. Split the buns and toast the cut faces on a clean, dry frying pan or griddle over medium heat for 1–2 minutes, without pressing the crumb. The outside should be warm and supple, with a toasted interior that holds up during assembly. Do this immediately before cooking the patties.

The dish

Use warm, dry dinner plates, one per person, leaving room to pick up the burger without pulling it apart. Set down the toasted bottom bun and spread one quarter of the well-drained scallions in a shallow layer. Once the patty is fully cooked, brush its upper face with 10–12 ml hot stock and immediately add the Cheddar to melt in the residual heat; if needed, cover for a few seconds over low heat without boiling the stock on the griddle. Place the patty with its melted Cheddar on top, add a slice of provolone with its most browned face upwards and finish with two crisp bacon slices fitted inside the bun diameter. Close with the warm top without pressing and serve immediately: golden, supple bread, two distinct cheese layers, dry bacon and scallions visible at the edges, with juices contained in each bite.

Key points

Pairing

A dry amber beer with moderate toastiness and enough bitterness to accompany the fat and cheese. For an alcohol-free option, chilled sparkling water with a slice of lemon.

Notes

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